The Rainy Escape
(Friday 6th September, 2019)

Tired after my night shift and working on only 3 hours of sleep, we (K, T and I set off to Billund by bus. It was a very rainy day here in Denmark, grey and dull. One of those days that make you want to escape elsewhere.

The plane ride from Billund to Keflavik was, although I was quite uncomfortable initially (I’m quite scared of flying, very inconvenient for loving travelling), very smooth and almost pleasant. It took 2 hours and 45 minutes, and since Iceland’s timezone is 2 hours behind Denmark’s, we arrived there at 22:45.

Keflavik is a surprisingly large airport, but I suppose it works out like that because of the stop-overs to North America. You can really fly anywhere in NA (incl. Canada) through Keflavik, and you’d also hear the American accent a lot while walking around.

We had some trouble finding our hotel for the night, so eventually we grabbed a taxi and it took us there. It’s located in the buildings that the US army used when they had soldiers based here. Buildings looking all square and boring, so it showed. The weather was equally rainy and windy in Keflavik, meaning we didn’t escape anything.

Since we were all tired and it was nearly midnight when we got into our rooms, we just went to bed and prepared for an early morning, starting our adventure for real.

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A Slight Detour
(Saturday 7th September, 2019)

We got up early by 6:45 in order to book a space on the shuttle bus from the hotel back to the airport, which is where we would meet with the people from the car rental company. The shuttle wasn’t free but rather cost 600 ISK per person. The impression is that things in Iceland generally seem expensive, but the judge is still out on that.

The weather is still quite horrible, the promise of a full day of heavy rain and lots of wind ahead. Driving to the airport, you could not see many meters ahead because of the heavy blanket of rain, the visibility over the landscape being extremely poor. Most other people waiting for the shuttle bus fell into the type of people wearing expensive, good outdoors clothes, which I suppose fits my idea of an Icelandic tourist.

At the airport we had an expensive breakfast consisting of a coffee and a sandwich (albeit a good sandwich), then we had to call the car rental agency as they didn’t show up as anticipated. They sent a shuttle car, drove us to their office, we signed the papers and we went out to meet our car for the week: a white Dacia Duster from 2019.

As it turns out, there’s a whoooole bunch of Dusters driving around on the Icelandic roads, seemingly one of the more popular cars to rent out/rent. K started driving today; it is with manual gear so it took a bit of an adjustment after having gotten used to the automatic in his hybrid back home. For me too, when the time came to drive – although overall it went pretty well. No stalling the engine, yet!

Anyway, the plan was to drive to the historic village of Reykholt (in a northbound direction) and then to the warmest hot spring by the village, then continue on towards Snæfellsness peninsula and maybe spend the night up in Olafsvik.

We drove on the ring road going around Reykjavik and from there into the Icelandic landscape. A vast blanket of black lava fields, looking pretty special, with mostly yellow/orange colours, naked mountain sides, and small rivers/brooks breaking through. Impressive; certainly, although to me perhaps not beautiful as far as I’ve seen today. Though, to be fair, better weather would help improve the looks of everything, as the rain lasted all day and was so dense it was like driving in heavy mist at times.

Well, we arrived at a small village called Reykholt but the most interesting thing here was the greenhouses (powered by hot springs), so we figured we had set the GPS to the wrong Reykholt. Herp derp, we were now verging the Golden Circle instead of moving northwards. So, after a visit to the convenience store and the toilet, we decided to find out way back towards the intended Reykholt.

This time as we drove past a lake we saw the sun struggle in vain to peak out through the clouds for a few minutes, which was very pretty. K’s GPS – brought from home – for whatever reason guided us onto the gravel roads of Þingvellir National Park. It felt like a real adventure, driving rather slowly along the black gravel road, tall mountains rising on the sides, strange rock formations and yellow/orange grass and shrubbery. Definitely good to have a 4WD, though the roads were a lot better here than in Africa. It was quite enjoyable to see the national park from “the inside”.

However, after many kms we reached a dead end! The road had been closed for some reason. We had to drive back a while and then turn down another side gravel path to get to a main, paved road. This road lead us along the shore of Þingvallavatn for a while.

We made a short stop at a parking lot, but it was a “pay to use” parking, despite seemingly being a centre for different hiking routes, so this combined with the rain made us drive on after a short leg stretch.

By now we had decided to aim for Borgarnes and find accommodation there, so that we can drive around Snæfellsnes tomorrow. This took us a bit back in the direction towards Reykjavik before turning in a northern direction. The coastline around Hvalfjordur was very pretty. And I drove through my first tunnel – quite a long one, almost started feeling claustrophobic as it seemed neverending.

When we got to Borgarnes, we walked into the first B&B that we saw, and although K thought it was expensive (150 euros for a room fitting 4 people, nice view over Borgarfjörður, which would surely be epic on a fine day), he booked it. Nice room, I liked it.

We relaxed for a little bit before going out to dinner in the neighbouring restaurant. Had a lovely fish dish and a lemon posset for dessert. We than took a short walk around parts of the town, but it was still windy and there was a cold drizzle so before long we went back to the room for the night.

I took a shower and the water smelled kind of like rotten eggs, aka sulfur. It’s like I don’t smell clean but instead just of farts, and even worse, the whole room smells like a rotten fart now.. still. Part of being on a volcanic island, I guess?

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A Day on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
(Sunday 8th September, 2019)

We left our room in Borgarnes at 8-8:30 this morning. The weather was already better and the view much clearer, meaning we were able to enjoy some lovely scenery on our drive towards our next GPS stop, Arnarstapi, on the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

The scenery unfolding before us consisted of mountains, volcanoes, lava fields covered in moss, brooks, little white houses/farms with colourfully vibrant red or blue roof tops. Quite impressive. There was a bit of rain (although nothing like yesterday!) and clouds, but at times the sun shone beautifully through across the landscape, too.

By a gravel side road we drove in to have a look at the Gerðuberg salt columns. Curiously looking like a wall of naturally shaped pillars, it is sort of a spectacular sight. We continued on the gravel path until the end, seeing the “backside” of some volcanic landscape, crisscrossed with a river and dotted with free roaming sheep.

Weather permitting, we had more photostops at scenic spots today. We also went out for a little walk up the side of a mountain close by Arnarstapi, in order to see the Rauðfeldsgjá ravine. Inside the narrow, almost cave-like ravine was a small but lively waterfall – and some dead/wounded seagulls. It was very nice to stretch our legs for a bit.

In Arnarstapi we had our lunch, burgers and nachos. It was good but also relatively expensive. After finishing the food, we went for a stroll down to the coast line where massive waves continuously crashed against the cliff sides. This continuing motion had created some interesting patterns of erosion, and it was quite funny to observe.

Next we set course for Ólafsvík, driving all around the western edge of the peninsula. A few stops on the way, including a little detour on a gravel path leading to a beach (on the way to Falki viewpoint) with not entirely black sand. By this beach we once again found strong, wild waves plus a warning about strong currents and how it’s not advisable to swim.

In Ólafsvík we bought some snacks and then decided that we would make the drive to a town named Búðardalur where we aimed to spend the night.

On the way towards Búðardalur we made a stop by two different waterfalls, and we also enjoyed the dramatic coastal landscape along the road. At some point the road, once paved, turned into a gravel one. A mostly good gravel road, but still, hard to drive 80 km/hr there although that is technically permitted. I was driving on this stretch, and besides being in/snaking through wonderful landscape, it was actually also very fun to drive on. The sun had come out at this point and it was all pretty nice. Although it has to be said, that this little endeavour caused our once bright white car to take on tones of dirty orange/brown, though we are not yet completely soaked in mud as some of the other rentals we’ve seen.

We eventually made it to Búðardalurat about 18:30, where we found a couple of rooms at a B&B by the water. We got settled in and then went out for dinner. We went to a sort of restaurant/grill where the food was decent enough. K had a coconut battered haddock, which was surprisingly good. After the dinner we went back home and played a couple of games of yatzee before it was time to turn in for the night.

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Northbound
(Monday 9th September, 2019)

Today we started out from the guest house at about 8:30-9. The direction was set towards Akureyri, and on the way we stopped at a gas station to refuel and buy ourselves some breakfast. Got some prepackaged sandwiches. I had slept very poorly this night, kept waking up all the time, so I was happy I wasn’t the one driving first.

A bit later we stopped at a picturesque view point overlooking a lake and decided to have our breakfast here. This is shortly after we turned from the gravel road onto the Ring Road again. The landscape was not, overall, as riveting on this stretch of road, in my humble opinion. In fact, I thought it was a little bit of a dull drive.

Later on we made a short stop at Blönduós because there was a pretty gorge with a nice river running through it. Other than that I think there’s not much to say about this part of today’s drive.

Some 60 km or so before Akureyri I took over the driving. It went fine, also going into the town, which is the second largest settlement in Iceland. Here we exchanged some more money and had lunch at a fish’n’chips place. We tried some bits of fermented shark, served with Icelandic “brændevin”. The shark, while not really tasty as such (and with a strange, very firm and almost a bit rubbery texture) was not as bad as expected.

After our lunch we went for a small walk, seeing some of Akureyri’s old buildings, walking along the bottom of the fjord, Eyjafjörður, where a cruise ship was in. The weather was cloudy and with some rain, not too bad but also not as good as yesterday. We also stopped at the local tourist office to buy our ticket to pass through the tunnel just outside Akureyri, going through the mountain rather than around it.

Driving on (me), we soon came to the 7 km long tunnel. As we drove through, the temperature shifted up to 21 degrees from the 7 degrees outside; it was quite remarkable. After the tunnel the landscape was mountainous with trees in autumn colours strewn across. It was pretty.

We turned off the road to see Goðafoss, just a short walk off road 1. A strong, wide waterfall and quite a popular spot to stop. Of course, tourists don’t care about fences (they are probably there for no reason at all, am I right?), because woe them if they don’t get the perfect selfie… Despite the overcast weather, it was nice to see.

Soon enough after, we yet again turned off the main road to drive down to tonight’s accommodation, a guest house. This guest house is also a working farm and it was located some 5 km down a gravel road in a remote area – no neighbours for as long as you could see. Decent room with space for 4 people and hot tubs available outdoors. We arrived at about 16:20, settled in, and then went down for dinner in the early evening. They served us a very good mushroom soup. I was so tired after dinner that it was basically straight to bed.

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Black, Hot Autumn
(Tuesday 10th September, 2019)

Our accommodation had breakfast included today, so at about 7:45 we went down to stuff our faces at the buffet. There were a lot of people at the guest house, even though it had seemed to be a bit out of the way – but then again, there seem to be people everywhere you go here. We had woken up to grey, misty weather, apparently being in a cloud (we were at high altitude).

We drove off around 8:30, and as soon as we got a few km away from the guest house, the cloud cleared and visibility improved dramatically (although still no sun).

Our first stop was by the shore of Myvatn and another, smaller lake, by the view point called Skútustaðagígar. It was a very picturesque place with small pseudo volcanic shapes next to the lake, sheep, birds (ducks, geese and swans in particular), and the mountains in the background. We went for a small hike of 3 km around the smaller lake, and although we did get severely pestered by small gnats, it was a very serene walk.

Next stop was at the side of the road leading towards Dimmuborgir, where there were some pretty volcanic formations in the small lake, and where the trees had turned to their autumn colours.

Dimmuborgir was next, and it was very interesting with the large volcanic formations and the yellow/orange/red/green/purple foliage in stark contrast to the black; and with the Hverfjall volcano towering in the background. I guess the autumn colours on the tree leaves made it even more spectacular than it would have been otherwise.

We walked around Dimmuborgir for an hour or two, taking the blue, more strenuous route that led us well in between the formations and away from the regular path. I’m still not quite sure why the band came up with this name, though.

After this we briefly went up to a thermal bath and had glance, although the entrance was priced at 5300 ISK per person, which we thought was a bit steep – so no swimming for us. The water was very blue, smelled a bit like sulfur and was between 37-39 degrees warm.

Almost right across the road was another thermal lake with boiling water sputtering out from underground. Enough that there was a geothermal power plant placed there. The colour of the water was a bright blue and with the steam carrying across the surface, it looked very nice.

Further up Road 1 we’d find the boiling pots of Hverir where we also made a stop. The colours on the ground here ranged from white to red to green to yellow to purple, and the steam coming out from underground smelled strongly sulfuric. It was fun to see how the mud boiled in the “pots”, and to realise just how hot the ground must be almost right beneath your feet. We walked around here for a bit before driving on – in the now rain.

Some of the landscape on this next stretch was very barren and black, almost desolate like a moon landscape. A bit dull in the long run, although interesting to see.

Some 25 km off the Ring road we went to see Dettifoss and Selfoss. Had to walk about 1.2 km from the parking lot. Dettifoss was very impressive, very strong as the water came roaring down. It is supposedly the second strongest waterfall in Europe. Selfoss was a little less visited, and although it looked pretty nice, it was not as impressive as Dettifoss.

There are a lot of tourists everywhere, it seems, and especially many around Dettifoss. The parking lot basically seemed a small sea of white rental cars.

Our second to last stop was at a café in Egilsstaðir where we had a coffee and a rest so that we could book our accommodation for the night (12 km outside the town in Eiðar). We also went to have our dinner here, eating at an American style dinner of all places.

We then drove to our (cheap) hotel/hostel, which kind of looks like it’s placed in an old school. We arrived here at about 19:15 and are now resting, preparing for a long stretch of driving tomorrow.

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The Majestic East Coast
(Wednesday 11th September, 2019)

Today we set out from our hotel at 8:30, prepared for a day with a fair bit of driving and maybe not so much sightseeing. However, it turns out that today’s drive was, in my opinion, the most scenic of this tour as of yet. Stunning and dramatic coastlines galore.

Not long past Egilsstaðir we turned on to a gravel road, twisting and turning through the mountains. It gave us a pair of excellent views over green valleys and thundering waterfalls, the sun finally smiling through at us a bit today.

We made a stop at Djúpivogur to refuel, buy some apples and bananas and to use the rest room. It was quite a scenic little village as well, with its little boats and (no offense) ugly, Icelandic houses.

K took over the steering wheel and we followed Road 1 along the coastline, seeing those aforementioned mountains rise majestically and seemingly right from the water. Black sand beaches, sheep etc. Much more green here than on the southeast side than it had been previously.

We made a stop by Vestrahorn but as it turns out, you have to pay 900 ISK per person to drive out to the island which offers the better view of the mountain. Especially with the mountain shrouded in clouds and barely visible at this time, it did not seem worth it. So, instead we had a cup of coffee there in the café and found our accommodation for tonight (in Höfn).

Höfn was only 10 km away by now and we got there fast enough. The reception wasn’t open yet, so we did have to go on a walk in the town to pass some time. The houses were all more or less one story, quadratic cubes, which seems a little weird to me/us and not that attractive. I’ll say that to me, the Icelandic towns and villages have not been the most charming thus far.

At 15:45, we got our room. We had a few hours of relaxing before going down to dinner at a restaurant called Kaffi Hornið. Höfn is known as the ‘lobster capital’ of Iceland, so naturally we had to taste that. I went for the lobster pasta and it was very delicious. K also thought so, even to the point that he forgot to drink his beer!

We also treated ourselves to a dessert on this fine evening, getting some Icelandic skyr with cream and berries. This skyr was also significantly better than the equivalent which you buy in Denmark. Overall very yummy!

Very full and pretty happy we walked back to the hostel, where we are now preparing to sleep as we have another day driving ahead of us.

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Icebergs and Beaches
(Thursday 12th September, 2019)

Today’s driving offered both awesome and very boring landscapes. We started out from Höfn at 8:20 or so, after another night of not that great sleep. We made a few scenery stops before our first “scheduled” stop at Jökulsárlón.

Jökulsárlón provided an excellent view of the glaciers of Vatnajökull National Park, and the icebergs born from the edge of them, where the ice and snow melts into the lagoon. Even after the summer in September, there were icebergs floating around, slowly breaking down. It was quite impressive.

We then walked below the bridge and down to “Diamond Beach”, named after the various sizes of ice lying on the black sand beach. Also very pretty, and with the sun shining finally, also a bit warm. Before driving on we had our breakfast, a sandwich, at the concession stand at the site.

Next stop was just a minute or so away, Fjallsárlón, which is also a glacier lagoon – though a smaller one. This meant you were closer to the glacier when walking around, and it was also very impressive to see the shapes in the ice and the surroundings mountains.

We made a few photostops on the way, then stopped briefly in Skaftafell so K could take over driving. In Kirkjubærjarklaustur we stopped to put gas on the car, as well as to get some snacks from the shop. The road from there on out wasn’t entirely interesting, although there was a scenic point where we could walk a bit into a lava field covered in green, soft moss (quite fun to walk on as it has a sort of bouncy texture).

Shortly thereafter I was given back the driving reigns, and I took us to the next ‘big’ stop at Reynisfjara. This is a black sand beach with some water eroded caves and some basalt formations (named Reynisdrangar) in the water just outside the coastline. They warned against rip waves, as tourists have apparently drowned here with some frequency. Being there it was quite easy to see how someone might be surprised by the treacherous water, as suddenly the water deposited many meters above the regular level – and there were people who got off cheap with wet feet.

Afterwards we drove a little bit further to get to Dyrhólaey, where we got another point of view on the scenery of Reynisfjara, this time also with some sun shine. However, it also started to rain around this time, as well as the wind picking up. Truly was a very mixed weather experience.

The last stop in nature before our hotel for the night was Skógafoss. We almost went past it, but K saw that it was a big waterfall and so in we went. It was very quaint, the weak sunlight creating a rainbow in the mist above the falling water.

However, there was a lot of people there; overall as we come into the southern parts of Iceland, even more people started being everywhere at the sights. I can understand why the authorities here need to close some things off at times.

Anyway, I drove the last stretch to Hvolsvöllur Hotel, where we checked in to our rooms around 17:15. We then relaxed for a bit before we went to a pizzaria, where somehow the regular price was 3450 ISK for one pizza – and this rated on the cheapest end of restaurants according to Tripadvisor. It was an okay pizza, but not great – not what you’d expect for that price.

After food we took a little detour on our walk back to stretch our legs, played some games and had a shower etc. before tugging ourselves in for the night.

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A Foolish Wait
(Friday 13th of September, 2019)

We left our quite decent hotel after our breakfast buffet at around 8:30. K wanted to go as close to Hekla as possible, though not on top or her. Therefore, we tried to find a view from a nearby road (the parking lot for the volcano itself would take 4 hours to get to, according to GPS and road conditions). This search took us into lava hills land on a poor gravel road – it was quite pretty but I don’t think we even managed to see Hekla, covered as she was by clouds and the smaller mountains/volcanoes in the front. It was a game of hide and seek, one we gave up on eventually.

Afterwards we found our way back to “The Golden Circle” because we wanted to go up to Gullfoss and Geysir. Our first stop was at Gullfoss, which has an enormous parking lot and an enormous amount of tourists. The waterfall consisted of 2 falls, the first one being the most impressive. While we were walking around it, it starting hailing and it was already cold from the strong wind.

We had a cup of coffee in the rather crowded cafeteria on site before heading back on the road towards Geysir. Going there was a short ride, but a police vehicle parked across the road in front of us and made us stop. They were herding thousands (10k!) of sheep across the road, using a crew of maybe 30 riders on Icelandic horses as well as border collies. It was quite the spectacle to observe, and it also took a while before all sheep were safely across the road.

At Geysir it was also very busy. We parked and then walked up the path – pretty scenery. We stopped by Geysir itself, waiting for like 45 minutes for it to erupt in steam (along with many others, I might add). But to those who are not laughing at our stupidity as they read this, let me just tell you – Geysir does not erupt unless there is an earth quake or volcanic eruption, and last time it erupted was in 2000. Don’t need to pull an us and wait for 45 minutes there 🙂 We read this on an information board that was mostly washed out down by the parking lot as we went back to the car…
We did get to see the smaller geyser, Strokkur, erupt multiple times, however. It lets out a big burst of steam every 8-10 minutes, the mist also leaving a lingering sulfuric smell in the air.

We then drove on, made a stop in a smaller village (which we had driven through by mistake on our very first day here) to go to the toilet and to wash the car down with water. Best to leave it at the rental agency mostly looking white again.
Next stop was the crater called Kerið. There’s a lake with turquoise water in the bottom, and it has apparently been used to host floating outdoor concerts. We paid 400 ISK per person to have a walk around the crater rim (with an option to walk down the crater, too), which was a nice little walk.

By now we had decided to spend the night in Selfoss, seeing as the clock was around 16:00. It was a 15 km or so ride into the village where we knocked on the door of a supposedly low-priced guest house. Luckily they did have space for us here, and we paid 95 euros for the 3 of us for one night.

After settling in, shortly, we went for a walk down to the town (which turned out to be a bit boring and not very attractive) and the riverside. The weather was good by then so the walk was alright. We stopped on the way back to eat at ‘The Burgerjoint’ where a couple of unenthusiastic young people made us burgers and fries. At about 8.5k ISK, this was one of our cheapest meals in Iceland…

After food we went back to the guest house and now we’re just doing the usual before bed time as this trip is rapidly coming to an end.

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Full Circle
(Saturday 14th September, 2019)

On this last day of our Icelandic adventure we set out from our guest house a bit later, around 9:00. We made our first stop only 12 km or so away in the town of Hveragerði where the plan was to visit the geothermal park. The park, however, is closed Saturdays and Sundays from September onwards, so we ended up driving a little further up the road and have a walk around the hilly landscape outside town. Up there, hot springs let mist out along the mountain side, plus there was a small geothermal plant that we could walk up close to.

After our little walk, we drove off towards Reykjavik on quite a scenic road. Before entering the city, we turned left towards Bláfjöll because we thought there was a volcano. It was a very pretty area with the green/black lava fields and the mountains in the background, but it turned out to be a ski sport area (and currently without any snow) – therefore we didn’t go all the way up the mountains. We had a small pause to enjoy the scenery, though.

Driving into Reykjavik it became very windy, very rainy and pretty cold – ending on the same note that we started on. After the GPS taking us on quite a sightseeing on small side roads, we found a parking spot near the center at about 11:15.

We went for a walk in the very poor weather, then found “The Laundromat Café” where we had a hot beverage to recover from the cold and wet outside. We had originally had the idea of walking around Reykjavik for some hours, but we already felt miserable so we only made it down to the so-called ‘city pond’. Here we found many ducks, geese and swans. We also saw some parts of the older town where the houses weren’t even ugly.

Unfortunately, we did not get to see much of Reykjavik before we made it back to the car.. but we still had time to kill until 15:00 where we would be able to check in to tonight’s accommodation. Therefore, we decided to drive to and through Keflavik and around the small Keflavik Airport peninsula. On this drive we made a short stop by a golf course right on the coast, as well as by an old light house which now served as a café (was closed today, but pretty cool concept!).

A bit before 15:00 we had made it back to our accommodation, where we briefly dropped our stop off before setting out to give the car back to the rental agency.

K and I went for a little walk in the evening. It had stopped raining, but it was still very windy and cold. We just walked down the road in town for a bit, then turned around and went past the supermarket, where we picked up a few beers to enjoy on our last night here.

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Late Departure
(Sunday 15th September, 2019)

Day to travel home. Woke up just before the alarm (set at 4:30), only to find a text from Iceland Air that the plane had been delayed until 10:20. Called the taxi company and changed the pick-up time accordingly, set a new alarm and then went back to sleep.

Randomly woke up at around 7:00 to see another delayed flight text message, now due to take off at 11:15. Bummer, now we’d be at home late evening instead of in the middle of the afternoon.

After we went to the airport and had our bags checked in etc., we found the service desk where they gave us food vouchers because of the delay (value of 2200 ISK). We made the strange choice of spending it on sandwiches/yogurt from a vegan cafeteria, but it was tasty.

Otherwise, the journey home was more or less alright, aside from a train delay.

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Thoughts on Iceland:

On day 5 or 6 of this journey, I was struck with the sense that I was ‘done’ with this holiday now, which is not a feeling I often have when on holiday. Usually, I tend to be sad at the thought of having to return home. Now, there are personal factors probably contributing to this, but I reckon part of it is also that while Iceland is nice, cool and pretty, it is also a bit repetitive. The landscapes resemble one another very much in different parts of the country, and I suppose I got a bit saturated with it (plus the expensiveness is a bit off-putting).

It was an enjoyable trip, and it was nice to spend time with K and T, there were some beautiful scenery, some good food, some fun and a bit of worries, lots of lava fields and waterfalls, many mountains, many km driven, but I’m ready to move on from it now. While there is certainly tons of things to still explore in Iceland – you could focus on hiking, glacier exploring etc., and you could spend days in any one small area! – I think it is not a place that I will return to. I can fully understand the appeal of the destination, though, and I reckon it is worth a holiday for anyone considering it.

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Last updated 11th October, 2019.